I Do ... Again!

Perryville, Missouri. Quintessential small town America. Estimated population 8,172. Other than being the seat of Perry County and boasting a handful of wineries, the 7.7 square acres that encompass the city have no real claim to fame. But when it is home to one particular young man to whom your niece is about to marry—this time in the presence of family and friends—you have no qualms about jumping in the car and heading south to lands unknown and undistinguished.

Jeremy and Jessica have your traditional boy-meets-girl love story, with a twist. A chance encounter during spring break evolved from a budding romance into full-fledged adoration and plans to wed. When Jess enlisted in the Coast Guard, however, a quickie civil ceremony was in order, as was the promise of a more formal celebration down the road. That day had finally arrived and we were Perryville bound to join family for the festivities.

It’s a good thing Catholic Masses last (way) longer than ten minutes. Since we were utilizing hotel points for freebie stays during this road trip, and because Perryville is home to neither Marriott nor Hilton properties, we spent the night across the river in Cardondale, Illinois. We figured we could easily make the one-hour commute the next day. Unfortunately, floodwaters covered our route into Missouri and dictated more detours. We slid into the back pew ten minutes after the ceremony had begun.

It was lovely, with Jeremy’s uncle—and godfather!—officiating.

Kelli, another niece, was Maid of Honor.

Also in attendance were four of Mark’s sisters

Debbie, Teresa, Julie, Amy

and five of his other nieces … and a token nephew!

Kelli, Christina, Lisa, Jessica, Copeland, Alison, Stephanie

I look at them and wonder … when in the heck did they all grow up??? Our goddaughter, Christina, was born on the day Mark proposed to me.

Now? She and many of her cousins are married with children of their own, two of whom were THE cutest flower girls evah!

Bailey and Kaelyn

Things of course got turned up a notch once we were at the reception and the alcohol was freely flowing.  We managed to get Mark onto the dance floor for a spin with the lovely bride

and for the last dance of the night. Who knew Stairway to Heaven was such a long song?!?!? He he he ...  (One of THE greatest songs of all time and one which we played at OUR wedding nearly 25 years ago! Rock on!)

It was great to catch up with Mark’s family and I’m so glad we had a chance to celebrate with them.

Congrats, Jessica and Jeremy! Blessings and love!

Carlsbad of America

When homeward bound in 2008 after a trip to Little Rock and Memphis, we found ourselves in Southern Indiana. We had plans to tour the Lincoln Boyhood National Memorial and I also wanted to visit historic Vincennes, site of the George Rogers Clark National Historic Park. My mission, of course, was to score stamps in my national park passport. In Evansville, however, we happened upon Angel Mounds, site of a palisaded Middle Mississippi Indian village occupied circa 1500 A.D. There was no need to vote. With Mark’s background in archeology, we stopped there instead. Contrary to popular belief, it’s not always about me.

On our current-day trip to Missouri, I was determined to see Vincennes, the Clark Memorial and several more covered bridges … until our waitress at dinner told us about a must-see in West Baden. She relayed details of a grand hotel with a domed atrium. I’m all about swanky accommodations and was intrigued. As she talked, I realized I had heard about this place before. I swear it was Mark who had sent me the internet link, but he didn’t remember doing so. Now that I think about it, though, it may have been post divorce rebound boyfriend. So many men to keep track of … In any event, Mark was quick to decide: “Let’s do it; I’ve seen enough bridges!” (Hmmm … you think he’s still harboring a grudge from being hauled around Madison County?) Vincennes would yet again have to wait since detour we did. It turned out to be a fabulous decision and a stop well worth our altered plan.

Through a guided tour for a mere $10, Indiana Landmarks offered us an opportunity to immerse in the story of turn-of-the-century West Baden Springs Hotel. We had initially made reservations for the 2 p.m. tour, but were running a tad bit behind schedule. When you walk into an antique store in BF Indiana and discover you’ve landed in Russel Wright heaven, you become sidetracked.

But more about this great find in another post. A quick call to the hotel assured us we could be accommodated in the 4 p.m. tour instead. We were to meet in the gift shop ten minutes before the appointed time.

It’s a bit difficult to appreciate the hotel from its exterior as it’s hidden amongst the trees, but approaching the structure through arches and along a winding drive offers the first clue as to what is in store.

Ditto for the Ladies Room. Mark said the Men’s Room wasn’t as glamorous and he was right … I checked!

But it wasn’t until our tour began and we stepped into the 200-foot-diameter atrium that we discovered what a breathtaking monument it truly is.

The intriguing history of West Baden Springs Hotel dates back to 1778 when George Rogers Clark discovered the area’s mineral springs and salt licks. The supposed restorative waters, coupled with the tranquil landscape of Southern Indiana, have been a draw throughout the years to people searching for respite from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.

The region’s reputation as a mineral springs resort area began with the building of the French Lick Springs Hotel in 1832. Another hotel followed in the nearby town of Mile Lick—later renamed West Baden after the famous mineral springs in Wiesbaden, Germany—in 1855.

By the late 19th century, as many as 14 daily trains carried health seekers to and from to the valley for relaxation and rejuvenation.

Lee W. Sinclair transformed the hotel into a sophisticated resort when he assumed ownership in 1888. He added an opera house, a golf course, a casino advertised as the Carlsbad of America, and a double-decker pony and bicycle track. A lighted baseball diamond in the center of the track became the spring training grounds for several major league teams, including the Cincinnati Reds, Chicago White Sox, Chicago Cubs and Pittsburgh Pirates.

Unfortunately, fire ravaged and destroyed the hotel in less than two hours in 1901. Fortunately all guests were unharmed.

Sinclair used the opportunity to build the hotel of his dreams: a circular building modeled after the grandest spas of Europe, topped with the world’s largest free-spanning dome.

Unlike contemporaries who argued it couldn’t be done, 35-year-old architect Harrison Albright of West Virginia accepted the challenge to complete the grandiose building with a budget of $414,000 and a one-year timeline. With a 500-man crew working six days a week in 10-hour shifts, the structure was completed before the first anniversary of the fire in just 270 days!

Dubbed the Eighth Wonder of the World, the hotel was a haven for celebrities and political figures back in the day. Al Capone and Diamond Jim Brady were frequent guests, as were Chicago’s Mayor “Big Bill” Thompson and New York Governor and presidential candidate Alfred E. Smith. Some early advertisements claimed over 700 rooms, but sources today cite only about 500. Of course, the hotel rooms back then were small by today’s standards; most had one or two twin beds and no private bathroom. Today’s reconfigured space contains 243 rooms and suites, fewer than half of the total in the original structure.

After Sinclair died in 1916, his daughter and her husband took over the hotel’s operation and completed the massive renovation effort begun in 1913.

Overextended by the restoration, Lillian Sinclair sold the hotel to Ed Ballard in 1923 for $1 million. Ballard began his career with the hotel as a bowling alley worker and made his fortune by operating a flourishing—albeit illegal—gambling business in the area. Following the stock market crash of 1929, he sold the hotel in 1934 to the Jesuits for $1. They eliminated many of the property’s elegant appointments and operated it as a seminary college for 30 years. They also established a cemetery and interred 39 of the seminary’s priests over the years. When the Jesuits sold the facility, they retained ownership of that small parcel of land, which the Catholic Church in French Lick agreed to maintain.

Although the property was listed as a National Historic Landmark in 1974, it was closed to the public in 1989 for safety reasons. In January 1991 a buildup of ice and water on the roof and in drain pipes caused the collapse of a portion of the exterior wall. The collapse affected less than 10% of the exterior masonry ring that surrounds the dome and the dome itself remained structurally sound.

Through an anonymous contribution, the Historic Landmark Foundation of Indiana purchased West Baden Springs Hotel in 1996 for $250,000. That same year, Bill and Gayle Cook and their Bloomington, Indiana-based company Cook Group Inc. contributed to stabilization and partial restoration of the hotel and its grounds. Initially committed to spending $12-14 million on the property, their expenditures eventually tallied a whopping $30 million on the Phase I restoration (1996-early 1999) and an additional $5 million in maintenance (1999-2004).

After an extensive search for owners to complete the restoration, CGC Incorporated, a Cook Group company, purchased both West Baden Springs and French Lick Springs Hotels in 2005. Its $500 million historic restoration project also included the development of Indiana’s 11th casino.

The tour was very informative with all of its behind-the-scenes facts and I’m glad we decided to discover the hotel that way. Because of all the flooding in the area, much of the grounds were under water and not included in the tour. When it was said and done, however, we were encouraged to explore on our own. Even though we couldn't get very far, we did just that.

The West Baden Springs Hotel is absolutely stunning and proved to be a very worthwhile deviation from our original touring plans. I love when that happens! As for Vincennes? I’ll catch it the next time I’m in the area; I don’t think it will be too far in the future. As we headed back through that archway, Mark and I looked at each other and declared, “We’re going to come back and stay here!”

Indiana Bridges and Barns

I was having dinner with Tracey and relayed upcoming plans for roadtrippin’ through the Midwest en route to a family wedding. Antiquing was of course on the agenda, but I questioned what else there was to see and do.

“Did you know there are covered bridges near Indianapolis?” she wondered.

Really? Oh, Mark’s gonna love this!

Tracey and I worked together back in 2006 when he and I did an impromptu holiday weekend through Iowa. She well remembered my stories of how we bounced down the gravel back roads of Madison County so I could photograph all six of its covered bridges. Let’s just say Mark was an incredible sport. I had no idea there were similar structures in Indiana, let alone along the very path we would be taking to Missouri. I jumped on line to see what I could discover (what did we used to do before Google?) and found an entire website dedicated to the covered bridges of the Hoosier State (http://www.countyhistory.com/index.html). Comparing the location of the 91 standing covered bridges to our travel route, we could see another half dozen or so. Major score! And as an added bonus, I found out there were a whole lotta round barns in the area as well. You already know how I feel about barns …

Fast forward to travel day. Our first stop was along the banks of the Mississinewa River. The Matthews Covered Bridge, which is also known as the Cumberland Covered Bridge, crosses the waters on the east edge of Matthews in Grant County. You know you’re in rural America when the thoroughfare you’re looking for is called County Road South 990! With ever-dependable Bernice Garmin narrating the way, we found the bridge without incident.

The first bridge in Matthews was an open structure built in 1863 by William Parks. In 1878 the Smith Bridge Company built an uncovered structure at the same location for $722; a local contractor finished the roof and siding in 1879. This single-span Howe Truss structure has a length of 175 feet, or 183 feet if you include the 4-foot overhang at each end. A flood floated it a half mile downstream in 1913 before it was returned to its foundation by rollers and horsepower. Though no historical marker is present, the Matthews Covered Bridge was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1978. After many years of use, this structure was restored in 1999 and can still be traversed today.

By the time we reached Bartholomew County, we were seriously running against the clock and rapidly losing daylight. Worst case scenario was that if it was too dark by the time we found Mill Race Park where the New Brownsville Bridge crosses the edge of a pond, we’d double-back and check it out in the morning. But it was not meant to be. We were double-whammied by the torrential downpours which plagued the area earlier in week. Major flooding had occurred and the roads in the park were closed. We were disappointed, but filed away a visit for the next time we are in the area. Columbus, Indiana looks like a great place to explore.

Strikes 2 and 3 occurred the next morning while at the Jackson Country Visitor Center. We learned the Bell Ford Covered Bridge had collapsed into the White River back in 2006 and existed no more. Boo! Flood waters had run rampant here as well and also rendered the Medora Covered Bridge inaccessible. Boo! But despite its near-flood conditions,

we were able to see the Shieldstown Covered Bridge. Hurray!

Located near Brownstown on … yes, you guessed it … County Road 200 North, the Shieldstown Covered Bridge was the fourth and last of such structures to be constructed in Jackson County. Built by JJ Daniels at a cost of $13,600, the two-span bridge was completed on November 17, 1876. The 355-foot long structure spans the east fork of the White River and looks similar to the Matthews Covered Bridge. This one, however, utilizes the Burr Arch truss system. It was closed to traffic in the 1980s.

Jackson County is also home to two round barns. The Stuckwish Barn is located on County Road 460 West (do we see a theme here?) in Driftwood Township. Completed in 1911 by Daryl Carter for George Stuckwish, it was patterned after the nearby Mahan round barn.

It’s 60 feet in diameter with a self-supporting two-pitch gambrel roof and was constructed of locally milled beech wood. The Mahan barn was purchased by Mr. Stuckwish in 1913, but destroyed by fire in 1983.

 

The Hall Barn? Strike 4! When built in 1910 by Louis Geyer, the well-equipped barn boasted a roomy drive and an apartment for a veterinarian. Unfortunately, it was also located in the now-flooded Medora area on what appeared to be a private farm.  Now I have no qualms about trespassing to obtain good photos (shhhhh … my motto has always been that it’s better to ask for forgiveness than for permission), but Mark assured me his Traverse was not capable of swimming. That winding road was well underwater and we were only able to admire the structure from afar …

and through a zoom lens!

At least the weeds were flourishing in all that water.

Time to get the heck out of Jackson County!

We always come up with a loose game plan as to what we want to see and do while exploring. No sense in showing up someplace without a clue as to what it has to offer, right? Yet we are more than flexible and willing to switch from Plan A to Plan B if a change of plans is warranted. This time around we did just that. To make a long story short (more details in my next post), we turned left and headed south instead of traveling west to Vincennes. The George Rogers Clark National Historic Park and several more covered bridges would have to wait.

Couple the wrath of the weather gods with an impromptu detour and in actuality we only ended up seeing two bridges and a barn and a half. Ah well, better those than none at all, huh? We’ll take what we can get!

Smile!

Is a smile a question?  Or is it the answer?
~ Lee Smith

A Frog

During our visit to the Frederik Meijer Gardens, Aunt Cecile and I also had an opportunity to check out Jim Dine: Sculpture. Dine is an American artist whose work emerged in the late 1950s and early 1960s during the Pop Art movement. He and contemporaries such as Andy Warhol and Roy Lichtenstien challenged the art world by asserting that an artist’s use of modern materials, popular imagery and absurd contrast could stand side by side with traditional works.

Dine was admired for his paintings and graphic work, but his effort as a sculptor is less known. The retrospective exhibition at the Gardens is the first of its kind and traces the origins of his sculpture from rarely seen early work to his more current endeavors. Recurring iconic themes range from tools to Venus to the heart and, most recently, to Pinocchio.

Indeed, while we perused the exhibit, we noticed that Dine produced his pop art with items from everyday life: Hammers, hay, scrap metal, shoes, wood, and even an electric toothbrush! I love modern art, but this was some funky stuff.  Quite frankly, we didn’t really get it and wondered what in the heck he had been thinking … or smoking!

“He’s not Chihuly,” I remarked, which led to our more in-depth analysis. Some works of art speak to us while others don’t. You’ve got to kiss some frogs before you find a prince!  Nevertheless, while we won’t love or necessarily understand everything in the art world, we certainly can appreciate it.

Photography, of course, was not allowed in the sculpture gallery. I am, however, able to share the works of Dine which were displayed on the neighboring terrace and in the conservatory.

The Technicolor Heart (The Big One), 2004

Venus in Five Colors, 2007

But don’t let just these two pieces and comments from the peanut gallery sway your opinion one way or the other. The exhibit runs through May 8. Visit the Gardens and decide for yourself if Dine is a prince or a frog.

Butterflies Are Blooming!

I received an email from my Aunt Cecile wondering, “Are you available for lunch? It has been a while .…” We usually try to get together every other month or so, but gosh … I think the last time we did that was before the holidays. We were definitely overdue.

I picked her up at the appointed time and asked where we were headed. “I have an idea,” she told me. Now you have to realize that when we become partners in crime, anything can happen. Like last September when we headed to Grand Haven for lunch. Six hours later we not only had dined, but also accomplished thrifting, an art walk and a lighthouse photo shoot as well. (I’ve really got to get caught up on those last few posts from 2010; that was a fabulous day!) This time her proposed adventure kept us closer to home, but nonetheless was another wonderful idea.

She has a Frederik Meijer Gardens membership. We could lunch at the Taste of Gardens Café and then check out both Jim Dine’s sculptures in the gallery and the Butterflies Are Blooming exhibition in the conservatory. Perfect!

She treated me to lunch (many thanks!) of a Caprese Salad reminiscent of those I enjoyed while touring Italy and Six Onion Soup, the latter of which was accompanied by my warning that she probably shouldn’t walk downwind of me for the rest of the afternoon. Let’s just say that I love onion soup, but it doesn’t always love me. ‘nuff said. The food was delish and lunch afforded us an opportunity to catch up. Aunt Cecile and Uncle Norm have just returned from six weeks of vacationing that took them to Florida, through the Panama Canal, to the City of Angels, back to the Sunshine State and home again. Me? Homebound, boring and insanely jealous!

I’ll save my take on Dine for the next post, but allow me to gush on and on about the butterflies. Love, love, love ‘em! The annual exhibit is in its 16th year and again features hundreds of tropical butterflies in various stages of the lifecycle, including adults freely flying among their guests. While we certainly didn’t have the conservatory to ourselves, it was mid-afternoon mid-week and not overly crowded. And it was sun, sun, sunny … which means the butterflies were soaring! We couldn’t have picked a better day.

They are beautiful and fascinating at the same time. Here are some interesting lifecycle facts that were detailed in the Gardens’ brochure:

In her short lifetime of two to four weeks, a female butterfly can lay hundreds of tiny eggs—about the size of the head of a pin. Some species lay eggs in clusters of a dozen or more while others lay them singly. Though hundreds may be laid, typically only one or two will complete the lifecycle to adulthood. 

Caterpillars may be best described as “picky eating machines” (kind of like kids, huh?) as over the next two to three weeks they spend most of their time eating specifically from a host plant. Their rapid growth requires them to shed their skin five times. If only my weight loss efforts could be so easy!

Inside the chrysalis a caterpillar changes into an adult butterfly. This typically takes about two weeks to occur. If you carefully examine chrysalides, you can see wings, heads and even eyes of developing butterflies.

After an adult butterfly takes it first flight, it feeds on flower nectar, finds a mate and lays eggs. Monarch butterflies from the Midwest and Canada make an incredible journey in the fall, flying more than 1,900 miles to the mountains in central Mexico where they spend the winter. What a life!

There were butterflies—and people with cameras!—everywhere. Most of the Lepidopteron were difficult to photograph since they just wouldn’t stand still. They weren’t flying, they were flitting! But we were content to grab a bench and watch them with wonder. So darn cool!

Thanks to Aunt Cecile for sharing another great afternoon.  Good times!  If you haven’t yet seen Butterflies Are Blooming, go! The exhibit runs until April 30.