Carlsbad of America

When homeward bound in 2008 after a trip to Little Rock and Memphis, we found ourselves in Southern Indiana. We had plans to tour the Lincoln Boyhood National Memorial and I also wanted to visit historic Vincennes, site of the George Rogers Clark National Historic Park. My mission, of course, was to score stamps in my national park passport. In Evansville, however, we happened upon Angel Mounds, site of a palisaded Middle Mississippi Indian village occupied circa 1500 A.D. There was no need to vote. With Mark’s background in archeology, we stopped there instead. Contrary to popular belief, it’s not always about me.

On our current-day trip to Missouri, I was determined to see Vincennes, the Clark Memorial and several more covered bridges … until our waitress at dinner told us about a must-see in West Baden. She relayed details of a grand hotel with a domed atrium. I’m all about swanky accommodations and was intrigued. As she talked, I realized I had heard about this place before. I swear it was Mark who had sent me the internet link, but he didn’t remember doing so. Now that I think about it, though, it may have been post divorce rebound boyfriend. So many men to keep track of … In any event, Mark was quick to decide: “Let’s do it; I’ve seen enough bridges!” (Hmmm … you think he’s still harboring a grudge from being hauled around Madison County?) Vincennes would yet again have to wait since detour we did. It turned out to be a fabulous decision and a stop well worth our altered plan.

Through a guided tour for a mere $10, Indiana Landmarks offered us an opportunity to immerse in the story of turn-of-the-century West Baden Springs Hotel. We had initially made reservations for the 2 p.m. tour, but were running a tad bit behind schedule. When you walk into an antique store in BF Indiana and discover you’ve landed in Russel Wright heaven, you become sidetracked.

But more about this great find in another post. A quick call to the hotel assured us we could be accommodated in the 4 p.m. tour instead. We were to meet in the gift shop ten minutes before the appointed time.

It’s a bit difficult to appreciate the hotel from its exterior as it’s hidden amongst the trees, but approaching the structure through arches and along a winding drive offers the first clue as to what is in store.

Ditto for the Ladies Room. Mark said the Men’s Room wasn’t as glamorous and he was right … I checked!

But it wasn’t until our tour began and we stepped into the 200-foot-diameter atrium that we discovered what a breathtaking monument it truly is.

The intriguing history of West Baden Springs Hotel dates back to 1778 when George Rogers Clark discovered the area’s mineral springs and salt licks. The supposed restorative waters, coupled with the tranquil landscape of Southern Indiana, have been a draw throughout the years to people searching for respite from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.

The region’s reputation as a mineral springs resort area began with the building of the French Lick Springs Hotel in 1832. Another hotel followed in the nearby town of Mile Lick—later renamed West Baden after the famous mineral springs in Wiesbaden, Germany—in 1855.

By the late 19th century, as many as 14 daily trains carried health seekers to and from to the valley for relaxation and rejuvenation.

Lee W. Sinclair transformed the hotel into a sophisticated resort when he assumed ownership in 1888. He added an opera house, a golf course, a casino advertised as the Carlsbad of America, and a double-decker pony and bicycle track. A lighted baseball diamond in the center of the track became the spring training grounds for several major league teams, including the Cincinnati Reds, Chicago White Sox, Chicago Cubs and Pittsburgh Pirates.

Unfortunately, fire ravaged and destroyed the hotel in less than two hours in 1901. Fortunately all guests were unharmed.

Sinclair used the opportunity to build the hotel of his dreams: a circular building modeled after the grandest spas of Europe, topped with the world’s largest free-spanning dome.

Unlike contemporaries who argued it couldn’t be done, 35-year-old architect Harrison Albright of West Virginia accepted the challenge to complete the grandiose building with a budget of $414,000 and a one-year timeline. With a 500-man crew working six days a week in 10-hour shifts, the structure was completed before the first anniversary of the fire in just 270 days!

Dubbed the Eighth Wonder of the World, the hotel was a haven for celebrities and political figures back in the day. Al Capone and Diamond Jim Brady were frequent guests, as were Chicago’s Mayor “Big Bill” Thompson and New York Governor and presidential candidate Alfred E. Smith. Some early advertisements claimed over 700 rooms, but sources today cite only about 500. Of course, the hotel rooms back then were small by today’s standards; most had one or two twin beds and no private bathroom. Today’s reconfigured space contains 243 rooms and suites, fewer than half of the total in the original structure.

After Sinclair died in 1916, his daughter and her husband took over the hotel’s operation and completed the massive renovation effort begun in 1913.

Overextended by the restoration, Lillian Sinclair sold the hotel to Ed Ballard in 1923 for $1 million. Ballard began his career with the hotel as a bowling alley worker and made his fortune by operating a flourishing—albeit illegal—gambling business in the area. Following the stock market crash of 1929, he sold the hotel in 1934 to the Jesuits for $1. They eliminated many of the property’s elegant appointments and operated it as a seminary college for 30 years. They also established a cemetery and interred 39 of the seminary’s priests over the years. When the Jesuits sold the facility, they retained ownership of that small parcel of land, which the Catholic Church in French Lick agreed to maintain.

Although the property was listed as a National Historic Landmark in 1974, it was closed to the public in 1989 for safety reasons. In January 1991 a buildup of ice and water on the roof and in drain pipes caused the collapse of a portion of the exterior wall. The collapse affected less than 10% of the exterior masonry ring that surrounds the dome and the dome itself remained structurally sound.

Through an anonymous contribution, the Historic Landmark Foundation of Indiana purchased West Baden Springs Hotel in 1996 for $250,000. That same year, Bill and Gayle Cook and their Bloomington, Indiana-based company Cook Group Inc. contributed to stabilization and partial restoration of the hotel and its grounds. Initially committed to spending $12-14 million on the property, their expenditures eventually tallied a whopping $30 million on the Phase I restoration (1996-early 1999) and an additional $5 million in maintenance (1999-2004).

After an extensive search for owners to complete the restoration, CGC Incorporated, a Cook Group company, purchased both West Baden Springs and French Lick Springs Hotels in 2005. Its $500 million historic restoration project also included the development of Indiana’s 11th casino.

The tour was very informative with all of its behind-the-scenes facts and I’m glad we decided to discover the hotel that way. Because of all the flooding in the area, much of the grounds were under water and not included in the tour. When it was said and done, however, we were encouraged to explore on our own. Even though we couldn't get very far, we did just that.

The West Baden Springs Hotel is absolutely stunning and proved to be a very worthwhile deviation from our original touring plans. I love when that happens! As for Vincennes? I’ll catch it the next time I’m in the area; I don’t think it will be too far in the future. As we headed back through that archway, Mark and I looked at each other and declared, “We’re going to come back and stay here!”